LRS Studio

Another brand I was attracted to is LRS Studio. I was surprised to find out what the brand represents and their inspiration. LRS Studio is all about youth culture, the club scene and crazy wild kids of New York. Designer Luis Raul Solis is inspired by art and Margiela. It lives by a 'don't give a fuck' attitude. The aspirational aspect of the brand does relate to me and I think that's why I like it. He also deals with political messages as a Mexican with underwear targeting towards Trump's outrageous rules.

It's the romanticised idea of coming to New York and the freedom that comes with being who you want to be in this city. It also plays on negative aspects such as insomnia, sleepwalking and nightmares. The girl who isn't ready to sleep with all this energy from a night out.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

Ader error

As part of the beginning stages of the summative brief we have been given 8 brands to look into for a possible fragrance. Out of the 8 brands there are three that I find particularly interesting in terms of aesthetic and brand story. Adererror is a Korean fashion phenomenon with a modern minimal aesthetic and clever Instagram presence. Their slogan caught my eye as "but near missed things" meaning seeing the old in a new way and not taking things for granted. 'Ader' is 'other' in Korean whereas 'error' is used as an expression for imperfection. It is a unisex brand that dabbles with colour, and gives and vibe of cool dad wear. It reminds me of the 90s TV show 'Freaks and Geeks' and the fashion the kids had in the high school.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

The Met Gala 2018

Another May has come around and this years Met was this week. I love to see the looks every year and choosing my favourites. This years theme was Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination and the Vatican even donated 50 pieces to the collection. It is said to have been the most controversial theme as of yet when it was announced. As usual there was a mixed bag with some not following the theme well. Some of the beauty looks were better than the outfits but overall my best dressed hits are:

Blake Lively in Versace 

Gigi Hadid in Versace

JLO in Balmain

Priyanka Chopra in Ralph Lauren

SZA in Versace

Clearly loved Versace's designs this year!

Love, 

Shaleen

xxx

Fashion Brands

Mark Tungate's book about the history of fashion brands was really interesting and I learnt quite a lot. I felt like after each chapter I needed a break to take it all in. I feel no where else would I have got so much information in one space. It not only talks about the brands but has to mention the industry works as a whole as well.

'Only when the marketers get hold of garments do they magically become 'fashion'

Right at the beginning of the book on the first page I liked this quote about the marketing strategies to consumers to make them believe they need these things. Thats the entire point of branding and selling that the book explores in every aspect.

'You can dress from head to toe in Gucci - that proves you're rich but it doesn't prove you have taste'

I thought this was really funny because its true. People have become blinded by names and logos that they don't put an outfit together because it looks good. Not to say designer apparel isn't trendy but there is plenty of cheaper options that are. This chapter was all about how consumers mix brands, high end and high street to create their own style. Fashion is an identity and you create your own with your take on clothes.

I couldn't possibly talk about every chapter because there were so many intriguing ones like the one about the collections. Fashion shows are so exclusive that any details I read about them is so cool.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

The True Cost

Underneath the glitz and glamour we are unconsciously aware of the hidden problems and ethical issues in the fashion industry. I had watched documentaries in high school of the use of sweatshops but this particular film hit another level of horror. I was unaware of some of the things explored in the film. The collapsing of the Rana Plaza after many workers complained, shows how little their voices matter and they are paid very little for the money the company produces. To put this inequality in perspective, they earn less than $3 a day when Zara's owner is the second richest man in the world. The pressure on the factory owners from the companies in the West that there is suicides from farmers and beating of workers. So there is no say and if you protest, you could be asking for a death wish. It doesn't help that they have chosen to put the factories in Bangladesh where there are no rules. It was definitely heavy to watch. The issue with fast fashion is people can use it to solve their problems through consumption, aka. retail therapy. Bloggers and Youtubers are also feeding this making you want to shop when you just have and don't need to. The system is very problematic. There is no quick answers to this problem. It is definitely the ugly side of fashion. The supply chain has changed from the US used to produce 95% in the 60s and now only 3%. Theres a high price for fashion. The bargains make it easier for us to wear it and after that selfie the product is useless and you need another one to feel less depressed. It was a very powerful watch.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

References: https://www.huffingtonpost.com/jasmine-bager/review-the-true-cost-docu_b_9463386.html

https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/reviews/a11041/the-true-cost-documentary/

https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/29/movies/review-the-true-cost-investigates-high-price-of-fashion-bargains.html

House of Z

During reading weeks I had a chance to watch more fashion documentaries. One that took my interest was House of Z focused on designer Zac Posen. I'd heard of him before but couldn't put face to name. He's young and he had a fall that we watched him come back from. The first half of the film is optimistic following his beginnings and early career to see where he come from. He is known for one of a kind dresses for clients. Posen worked with his family, all creatives, growing up in artistic neighbourhood SoHo. However, the downfall slowly creeped up on me where he said he was hiding behind a facade to keep interesting. The company was no longer a family business anymore with lack of money being the root of problems. It was interesting to see the mindset of Posen and learn about his creative process and the industry. I didn't know his dress was inspired by the ceiling of the Guggenheim! It has a lot of hope and new perspective by the end. It was moving, feel-good and left me inspired.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

References: http://variety.com/2017/film/reviews/house-of-z-review-1202393226/

Fashion Together

At London College of Fashion there is an exhibition at the Fashion Space Gallery about collaborations in the industry rather than individuals. It was curated by Lou Stoppard like the North: Fashioning Identity. The collaborations had the likes of Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy with their grungy chic. Nick Knight and Daphne Guinness with their music videos and 36 hour live-stream. Inez Van Lamsiveerde and and Vinoodh Matadin on their 25 years of front covers, advertorials and their own art. Bjork and Lady Gaga music videos and campaigns for Vivienne Westwood. Shaun Leane and Alexander Mcqueen backstage of a fashion show about aluminium coiled corsetry was my favourite as I am most intrigued by the happenings and makings of such exclusive events. Another part of the exhibition I enjoyed particularly was the one where they had an electronic flip book of polaroids. The instant capture is something that can't be changed in a physical picture and thats priceless. I liked the quotes around the garments on the floor as well it its something I haven't seen before in an exhibition. It was one small room so I do wish it had more.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

'It's great up North'

Recently I went to the North: Fashioning Identity exhibition at Somerset House and it was better than I had expected. I have a fascination with the North and I wish I grew up there. I love the culture, especially in 1990s Manchester such as the Hacienda club scene and indie bands from there. The exhibition was full of photography, fashion and art. It features artists Shirley Baker, Nick Knight, Paul Smith and Corinne Day.

Paul Smith's Manchester-themed pieces 

It was numbered 1-10 and I had my favourites. Number 4 was all about pubs, clubs, bars, stadiums and places of work. The typical British society that I am familiar with and how football unites and shapes communities. 5. i-D magazine is still one of my favourite magazines today and back then they had just started the iconic straight-ups of what people were wearing in real life on the streets. 8. Global Influence. I wasn't aware of the rest of the world connection with the North because of London's presence as a fashion capital. However, people know and have a perception through the music, graphics and style that comes out of the North. These teenage obsessions, heroes of their youth or characters they wanted to be. For example, Antwerp born designer and one of menswear's most respected innovators, Raf Simons took inspiration from an A/W03 for his SS18 collections. 15 years apart and Simons used graphics from an archive by Peter Saville. Saville is known for having his designs on record sleeves and posters for Factory Records such as bands like Joy Division in the late 70s and early 80s. It showcased the casual scenes of the 80s such as the passion for brands and labels from international ones like Lacoste to British luxury Burberry. Although these trends came in and out quickly. Unlike this, Adidas remains consistent today. Also, Samba and ZX running shoes were adopted by clubbers and football fans. They dedicated shoes and garments to key towns and collaborated with popular northern figures. 9. I sat in the comfy home style setting of this room and watched a video about how early influences form favourite songs to adored items of clothing often form starting points for later work of designers and image makers. This was quite humbling to hear.

It was engaging, lively and full of energy. Theres so much attention on London for British fashion and it was refreshing to see it from other cities. I think because I am from London as well I find it boring and repetitive and I want to see something new and different. Like Lou Stoppard said, its "different from regular fantasy fashion exhibitions as its real and simple." That attracts me more.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

Fashion x Film

Fashion is everywhere, influences and is influenced by everything. Music, culture and film. Viewers are engaged in a gripping story and whilst being emerged into the scene, fashion plays its own part. It gives a place for the clothes and the characters who where them are their own person. It may be fiction but people become involved and aspire to be like certain characters and may like to dress like them. It allows people to experience the concept of the brand that may not have been conveyed before through still image like the HM x Erdem collection by Baz Luhrmann. Even famous directors are doing fashion films. It boosts sales and sticks in your memory better.

Cult films such as 'Rebel Without a Cause' we remember the white shirt and leather jacket worn by James Dean. It is used as a tool to depict culture, hierarchy and era like in 'The Great Gatsby.' Along with the mood that is created with cinematic effects, theres power to clothing.

Not only films but tv shows are known for fashion. 'Gossip Girl' has a variety of fashion through their characters such as the gothic portrayal of Jenny Humphrey and her innocent school girl plaid. Blair Waldorf's headbands are iconic as well as the berets and designer dresses. There were even guest stars from the fashion industry such as Vera Wang, Karlie Kloss and Tyra Banks. I look to Clueless outfits for costume ideas for Halloween because the yellow plaid two piece is something everything knows.

Love, 

Shaleen

xxx 

Miu Miu A/W17

When asked to find interesting and successful outcomes to inspire us for our photoshoots, I came across the ad campaign for Miu Miu for this season. It is called 'Preservation Hall and Other Stories' by Alasdair McLellan, set in New Orleans and brings the culture of the Deep American South. It's a decade piece thats timeless yet innovative. I love the mixture of music and fashion with the incorporation of jazz culture. Its diverse, energetic, glamorous and is following the maximal trend. The stand out pieces were the brightly colour faux furs.

Some images from the ad campaign:

Love, 

Shaleen

xxx

Why Indie Magazines Are The Future Of Print

Indie magazines are becoming more and more popular and its obvious why. They're raw, more thought provoking and intriguing. The photography has deeper meaning and I prefer the style. They discuss issues and ideas that questions society and culture. I won't pick up a copy of mainstream fashion magazines, the likes of Cosmo because they are colourful and have a fake nature to them. Indie magazines also each have their own niche in the fashion world. My favourites are i-D, Heroine, Dazed, Love and Wonderland. I am also excited to find new ones. They push boundaries because they are produced independently like indie films. It's where I look if I am trying to find some inspiration.

In a recent seminar, we looked at layouts of our favourite magazines and I chose Heroine because I have recently found it whilst in flicking through some in Ideas on Paper. It is visually so appealing starting from the cover that is just an image, no text like a photo book. The layout isn't typical with the three columns. However, has a variety of visual contrast that keeps me interested whilst reading. One of my favourites was the column of bold text, another image then another column of regular text.   It definitely gives me inspiration for my own work that I will be doing on InDesign.

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

Marie Zucker.

Marie Zucker is someone who I've admired for a couple of years now, I have also been inspired to take pictures like she her's for photoshoots. I was quite surprised that she had found my art account on Instagram and liked one of my posts. It definitely made my Saturday morning! She has worked for the likes of On the Rocks, Lula, The Last Magazine, Violet Book and Vogue Italia.

I love the introspective moments, that seem taken by chance. They're naturalistic, faded and subtle. The use of a film camera adds a pastel and delicate feel and the colours are definitely more vibrant as well. There's an element of youthful beauty, innocence and fairy tale decadence. It's ethereal and beautiful to leave reality whilst looking at the images. The intimate and cropped, close up pictures are lovely to see the finer details of the photos. They all seem so effortless. Some cool images are below:

http://www.mariezucker.com

Love,

Shaleen

xxx

'Coach 1941' SS18 Ready To Wear Collection

Coach 1941 SS18 Ready to Wear collection at New York Fashion Week is full of sparkle and glitter representing 80s disco from the set to the clothes. Stuart Vevers presents undone and effortless designs that I want to take off the runway and wear myself. From embellished outerwear, decorative dresses to glittery boots, all are gorgeous. It has been called the millennial brand because is resonates with young Hollywood especially the silk slip dress and lace over mesh combinations. The first look  might have to be favourite because the jacket is so eye-catching and unlike your regular fur coat with the different colours and leather involvement. The leather jacket on Kaia Gerber in runway look 3 is the perfect mix of masculine and feminine attire. The last look is a couture version of the striped trouser trend on the high street. I love the mixture of the decades of the 70s as well as the 80s for a new fresh style.

"All about attitude" – Stuart Vevers 

The beautiful fur coat makes the look

The shoes are western boots but the glitter makes them fancier to be worn on a night out rather than casual

The glittery skirt is all things glamour and glitz 

The embellishment on the dress sets it a part from the other mesh in the outfit

The contrast of the red mesh and silk pink dress is different

The bags in the collection are just as pretty and match 

Love

Shaleen

xxx

Is LA the Next Fashion Capital?

Los Angeles is one city that has so much influence in the world. The lifestyle, culture and opportunities available there is unlike any other place. Hollywood being based there influences a lot of the public's fashion aspirations. Also, landmarks and places there are so well known that people want to visit like the Hollywood sign, Melrose, Beverly Hills and Santa Monica Pier to name a few. In addition, bloggers seem to be based there as forecasting more trends. LA is also home to many independent and exclusive retailers for example Brandy Melville, Reformation and Nasty Gal. Some of the best brands for denim and bohemian are based in LA, such as Guess, True Religion and For Love and Lemons. Theres an effortless glamour to LA. I think because it isn't a traditional city like the big 4, London, Paris, Milan and New York but has the beach aspect to it. Ive been obsessed with the place and California as a whole. Its a guilty pleasure and if theres anything about it I am drawn to looking.

"LA is the globe in a small space." – Ryan Gattis

Los Angeles doesn't have seasons with the weather being a minimum of 70ºF year round. As much as the city is full of artistic people, I don't think fashion week in LA will overtake New York, however it may become another stop in the season.

'A fashion capital is a city which has a major influence on international fashion trends and in which the design, production and retailing of fashion products.' If we're going by definition of a fashion capital then LA encompasses it. 

Love,

Shaleen

xxx